Blog Post

ROUGH Night Out: Around the Cluck @ Valderrama’s Sports Bar

  • by ANITA KESHI: ROUGH ONLINE ARTS & CULTURE DIRECTOR
  • 18 Nov, 2022

Review

Valderrama's is a one-of-a-kind sports bar. The quirky 48-cover restaurant on Islington's Upper Street is kitted with retro interiors inspired by flamboyant Colombian football player, Carlos Valderrama. It’s also home to the fried chicken concept, Around the Cluck, founded by acclaimed chef James Cochran of 12:51. Inside the restaurant, patches of retro football kits and photos of footballers adorn the walls and several large screen plasma TVs broadcast live sporting and football events. We can't forget the instagrammable toilets, which feature wall-to-wall collages evoking 90s nostalgia.

We arrived just in time for their brand new menu, which featured buttermilk fried chicken burgers, thigh pieces and sides like chicken wings, fries and hash browns, all paired with creative flavours, sauces, and names like 'WTF' and 'Spice up your life.' Our main courses were the limited edition Korean-inspired 'Buff Ting' and 'WTF' burgers. The 'Buff Ting' featured two fluffy brioche buns loaded with kimchi, a tangy korean buffalo sauce, asian slaw, crunchy shrimp crackers, creamy thai basil mayo and the largest buttermilk fried chicken thigh I had ever seen. It was sloppy, but packed a powerful punch. A mildly spicy szechuan peppercorn sauce, smoked mushrooms, crispy onion rings and the signature buttermilk crispy thigh with melted American cheese comprised 'WTF.' This was just as rich as the 'Buff Ting,' but slightly better as the fillings enhanced the crispiness of the chicken batter rather than the more saucier one. Overall, both burgers were delightfully tender, flaky on the outside and bursting with flavour.

The sides were equally delicious. The peanut sauce-slathered chicken wings were perfectly executed, with a light crispy batter topped with toasted peanuts, sesame seeds, and crispy seaweed. This and the 'WTF' burger would be our top dishes of the night. The crispy fish sauce and caramel wings were irresistible and juicy, thanks to the depth of flavour from the caramel, which contrasted well with the sour and spicy notes. Onto the hash brown - this starchy masterpiece was crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside, doused in chicken gravy, chicken gravy mayonnaise and topped with shallots. Around the Cluck took loaded fries to a whole new level with the truffle cheese fondue, signature 12:51 x sauce shop scotch bonnet jam and bacon scratchings toppings on perfectly thin and crispy french fries. I was so good in fact, that we ordered another round!

In between courses, we sipped on the Valderspritz mocktails - a refreshing light and fruity concoction of cranberry, mango, orange, elderflower, lemon and soda. Their drinks menu also consists of an extensive list of classic cocktails, frozen margaritas, beers and wines.

We were completely satiated at this point, so dessert was a miss. Though, if we still had another bite in us, we would have gone for the miso caramel and peanut butter mousse doughnut. The loaded doughnut centered dessert menu also includes oat crumble and sticky toffee flavours.

Chef James Cochran has nailed the recipes and flavour combinations with the burgers and sauces at Around the Cluck. The batter is crunchy, the chicken is huge and moist and the sides are loaded with flavours…literally. Valderrama’s is a fantastic addition to Upper Islington’s food and entertainment scene. It’s a great, laid back spot to catch up with friends over some awesome cocktails in a buzzy sports-themed atmosphere and the location makes it a no-brainer for a super indulgent, fun and reasonably priced lunch or dinner.

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